How your brakes work
Given good technique, your brakes have the potential
to stop you and your machine faster than you can accelerate!
In other words, keeping your brakes in tip top condition and
using appropriate braking tactics may actually make you faster
than tuning up your engine, by allowing you to keep on the
power for longer and brake later. So, how does your braking
system work?
Your bike will have a hydraulic braking system
acting upon a metal disc (called a rotor) attached to each
wheel. When you apply the brakes, hydraulic fluid is pushed
through your system from the master cylinder (on either your
handlebars for front brake, or foot peg for rear brake) to
the slave cylinder in the corresponding brake caliper on each
wheel.
In a closed, sealed hydraulic system as outlined
above the following laws are true
- Hydraulic fluid cannot be compressed to a lesser volume,
no matter how high the pressure you apply
- Pressure exerts equal force over all surfaces of the
containing system (castings, pipes and cylinders)
- If the system is compromised by dirt, leaks, air or water,
the rules above don't hold true!
The elements of brake
hydraulic systems that affect performance most are
:
Pressure - this will remain
constant throughout the entire hydraulic
system (for any given input force). It is governed and
controlled by the input force on the brake levers.
If you put 10 psi into a system the laws of physics state
that this 10 psi will act on all surfaces within the system
equally. Pressure In = Pressure Out.
-
Force - A 1inch square plunger
surface area on your master cylinder with 10lb of force
applied to it will produce 10lb of force per square inch
or 10 psi. If your slave cylinder caliper has a surface
area of 2 square inches then the force here will be 2
x 10 lb which
will mean the calipers produce 20 lb of force. The input
force or pressure acting on your system is the
same (10 psi) but the output force can
be altered by changing the surface area of the slave cylinder
caliper. The ratio between the surface area of the master
and slave cylinders works just like the gearing ratios
on your drive chain sprockets.
Fluid Displacement - If
our 1 sq inch master cylinder travels forward 1" then
the amount of fluid it displaces will be 1 cubic inch.
If this fluid is then spread over the 2 square inches
of our slave cylinder the caliper will only be able to
move 1/2 of an inch. You will have and output force of
20lbs and your caliper slave piston will move forward 1/2
an inch. If on the other hand you fitted a larger slave
cylinder - lets say 10 sq inches to keep the maths easy.
Now your 1 sq inch input force would still result in 10
psi but now it is acting across 10sq inches of caliper
resulting in a huge 100lb force at the slave cylinder!
So why don't, we just have a massive stave cylinder and
get more power? Because our 1 inch of travel at the master
cylinder is now acting upon 10 sq inches resulting in 1/10
of an inch of travel. We have massive force but very limited
range movement on the caliper which means that your brake
pads may not be pushed far enough to grip the rotor hard
enough to stop you!
-
Lever Pivot Point - Any
effort you apply with your hand or right foot will result
in your brake pads pushing against your rotor discs. That
input force is multiplied by the fluid displacement and
caliper sizes as discussed above, but there is another
force multiplier at work as well. Initially the brake lever
itself gives you an advantage by multiplying the force
from your hand or foot through the lever. The distance
from the lever pivot point (where it's securing bolt is)
to the middle of the lever (where your fingers are) might
be 100mm. And yet the distance from the pivot point to
the point where the lever acts on the master cylinder might
only be 15mm. So, any force applied at
the lever will be 100mm/15mm = 6.6times greater at
the master cylinder! This is how you are able to exert
enough force to stop you, your machine and all the momentum
of your forward speed, with just two fingers of your right
hand! By moving your lever inwards along your handlebar,
in effect you move your hand further out increasing the
distance to the pivot point and potentially increasing
your braking power. Of course you also pull the lever further,
so if you grip your bars with two fingers while pulling
the lever with the other two fingers you need to ensure
your brake lever is adjusted so that the lever doesn't
pull tight against the back of your gripping fingers limitting
it's travel.
-
Brake pads and Rotor size - the bigger
the surface area of your brake pads in contact with the braking
rotor, the more friction can be applied for any given input
force resulting in quicker braking - that's obvious. But
the distance of the rotor's braking surface from the centre
of the wheel will also affect it's braking performance. This
is possibly the easiest way of improving the braking performance
of your machine - especially the front wheel. fit a larger
diameter braking rotor. To do this, you will also need to
change the brake caliper holding plate - to move the caliper
further away from it's mounting position on the bottom of
the forks. You can buy an oversize front brake rotor kit
comprising rotor and caliper mounting plate from most dealers
or on line.
Talon Engineering (the famous wheel
people) make kits for most popular bikes and you can
order on line here:
Talon
Brake Parts
So now you understand a little more
of the theory of how your hydraulic brake system works!
Remember, your brakes are critical to your speed round
the track and they are also pretty important in terms
of your safety and that of others too so keep on top
of your brake maintenance.
DISCLAIMER! The
information offered here is an introduction to the
principles and parts of your motorcycle's braking system.
Reading this top tip will not turn you into an expert
brake mechanic! If after reading this page you feel
inclined to carry out alterations to the braking system
of your bike we will not accept responsibility for
what happens next! You are responsible for your own
actions and this page has been made available online
only to offer an introduction and to give you a greater
background understanding of how your braking system
works, what affects any changes you make may have and
what the different elements of the system do. If
you are in any doubt about the braking performance
or maintenance of your braking system consult your
local dealer.
|
Register
for our Trail Truck news mailing and we instantly send
you a link to down load your FREE guide to preparing your
bike for riding abroad. You also get email alerts for our
regular Top Tips each time a new one is published. No commitment,
no strings, just good useful information. You can unsubscribe
at any time.

We
understand that you get more than enough mail already,
so we promise to limit our mailings to just really useful
information. We value the opportunity to stay in touch
with you. We will not abuse your trust by spamming you
with adverts and stories about how great we are!
You
can of course unsubscribe at anytime.
If
you trust us with your contact information.
We will not abuse that trust. We will not bombard you, spam
you, sell, hire or share your information.
|